Poor Man Survival
Self Reliance tools for
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ISSN
2161-5543
A Digest of Urban
Survival Resources
Getting
Started with Silver and Gold Accumulation
Many years ago upon
divorcing my previous spouse, she grabbed all of the marital assets, the house,
bank accounts, stocks, etc. I didn’t
care, I just wanted OUT! The one thing
that saved my bacon, the one asset she and her blasted lawyer did not know
about was my stash of junk silver and gold Krugerrand coins. Thankfully, this and a barter account I had
in my name is what allowed me to survive, paying for my apartment, its new
furniture and other items I needed.
Earlier, I had sold my business –and thus, my primary source of income-
that year the buyer never paid me!
To this day I buy and sell coins, mainly
pre-1964 “junk U.S. silver” which I find locally at flea markets and from what
sellers bring to me at my local office.
Here’s a short version of what you need to know to get started to buy
silver and gold.
So
it was commonplace for other residents in town to store their own gold with the
local smith, piggybacking on his security, in exchange for a nominal fee…
For
most of human history, money was metal-- primarily gold and silver. And people
knew that storing large quantities of gold and silver in their homes made their
wealth prone to theft.
Back
in 1965, Pres. Lyndon Johnson took the silver out our coinage, partly because
he no longer wanted the discipline of any precious metal to stop his ‘Great
Society’ big spending plans. His
economic advisors were Keynesian economists [a British economist, John Maynard
Keynes] who seemed to advise that large deficit spending was advisable for
stimulating the economy and that it would not harm the economy…this created our
current fiat currency which has en eroded spending power [buys 95% less than
the dollar of 1910] and why we always stress the importance of adding gold and
silver to your portfolio, preferably physical…and I personally suggest mainly
‘junk’ or US circulated coins vs. investment grade coins.
Central
banks spent 2018 accumulating precious metals in a monumental way, increasing
their holdings by the most in one year since 1967 while the rest of the world
was asleep at the wheel. REMEMBER, that
with the depreciation of the dollar, your money buys more gold and silver now
than it will in the future. The
purchasing power of our dollar continues to erode.
Getting
Started: Bullion (Stored Locally)
The
primary reason for buying precious metals is Armageddon insurance; to own a
form of money that will still have purchasing power should our paper-based
currency suddenly become valueless.
Don't
think that's a risk in modern society? Just talk to someone in Venezuela or
Argentina today. They'd gladly trade you millions of bolivars or tens of
thousands of pesos for a single gold coin.
Which is
why many believe it wise to have a stash (or "stack" in PM-parlance)
of gold and silver, in physical form, that you can quickly get hold of in your
hot little hands should a currency crisis arise.
Physical
gold and silver is referred to as "bullion". It's most common form
factors are coins and bars.
When
buying gold bullion for your emergency stack, most experts recommend
restricting your purchases to 1-ounce sovereign coins. These are coins
currently minted each year by select governments around the world; most notably
the Eagle (U.S.), Buffalo (U.S.), Maple Leaf (Canada), Krugerrand (So. Africa),
Philharmonic (Austria), Panda (China), Kangaroo (Australia), and Sovereign
(U.K.).
Why stick to the sovereign
coins?
First off, they have a low
premium to the "spot" price of gold. So you're buying your gold at a
good value versus most other options.
Wait. What's the spot
price? And how does that differ from the price I pay at the store?
The futures market sets the
price of an ounce of gold (called the "spot" price) at any given
minute of the trading day. Because it takes cost and effort to convert a lump
of gold into a specific shape and then ship it to a dealer, the mints tack on
an extra fee when they sell their products to precious metals dealers. Those
dealers in turn add their own mark-up. The total price above the spot value
that you pay at the store is referred to as the "premium".
OK, got it. So my goal is
to try to buy my gold for the lowest premium per ounce?
Yes, in general. And that's
why experts recommend sticking to the 1oz sovereign coins. If you purchase gold
in increments smaller than 1oz, the premium per unit of gold increases sharply
the smaller you get in size. And if you buy numismatic coins, the collectable
value often results in large premiums over spot price.
You lost me again. What are
"numismatic" coins?
Numismatic coins are coins
that have collectible value. Generally, they are no longer minted today and
exist in a secondary market where they're traded between collectors. Those
building their emergency gold stack should steer clear of numismatics -- in a
crisis, coins are likely going to be valued primarily for their gold content.
Any collectible value could be easily discounted or disregarded altogether.
Also, unless you have years of experience trading them, it's easy to lose money
or get plain ripped off buying numismatics.
OK, stick with the sovereign coins. Any other
reasons why?
Coin dealers -- the folks
you're going to sell your gold back to someday -- are by far the most familiar
with these coins over all other forms. They can spot fakes more easily. So, if
you're buying from a reputable dealer, you can have confidence you're getting a
pure product. And, when the time comes to sell your gold, if you're holding it
as sovereign coins, a dealer will be most likely to accept them.
What about silver?
Government mints also make
sovereign silver coins. Those are fine to buy.
There are private mints
that also make coins, which are referred to as "rounds". These tend
to have a lower premium to spot that the sovereign silver coins. But you need
to be careful here. If you buy rounds, make sure to buy a brand that your local
dealer recognizes and agrees to accept. Otherwise, when it comes time to sell,
you might find he's only willing to buy them from you at a discount to spot (or
perhaps, not at all).
By far the cheapest way to
buy silver is by purchasing bags of pre-1964 US coins (quarters, dimes, etc),
aka "junk silver". Prior to 1964, these coins were comprised of 90%
silver. Today, dealers sell pre-weighed bags of these coins at very small
premia over spot. Bags of junk silver also give you the option value that,
should a crisis ever force us back to transacting in silver, you've now got
small-increment coins with which to buy low-cost everyday items (bread, milk,
etc).
But as every silver
investor learns quickly, silver is heavy! And beyond a certain amount, it
becomes challenging to store and transport stacks of coins/rounds.
Which is why those looking
to own hundreds or more ounces of silver typically purchase silver bars. As
with rounds, there are many mints that issue bars, but there are two brands
that have been around for a very long time that dealers prefer to deal with:
Johnson Matthey and Engelhard
Where can I buy gold & silver bullion?
You can purchase sovereign
gold coins from your local coin dealer or from an online dealer.
In both cases, deal with a
firm that has been in business for years -- ideally a decade or more -- and has
a well-respected brand. These firms have a reputation to protect and thus will
be less likely to gouge you, sell you inferior product, or do anything
shady/illegal. If possible, choose a firm recommended by a longtime gold buyer
who's opinion you respect.
There should be no product
quality difference whether you buy sovereign coins from a local or an online
store. But there is an important advantage to buying from a local dealer: the relationship.
It's highly valuable to
have a local dealer who knows who you are, values your patronage, and knows
that he sold you good product. In a time of panic, bullion supply can quickly
dry up -- as it did in supreme fashion in 1980, when coin shops had lines
around the block of people desperate to exchange their dollars for gold. In
that kind of limited inventory environment, being on a dealer's "preferred
customer" list -- getting first access to restricted supply if you
want to buy more, or receiving discrete VIP treatment should you want to sell
-- will be a tremendous advantage.
And a local dealer can be a
font of useful intelligence and advice. Good dealers have their finger on the
pulse of the PM market: are people net buyers or sellers? Are inventories
tightening/expanding? Are premiums rising/falling?
Also, they can advise you
on your purchases. For example, if you buy less than $1,000 worth of bullion in
certain states, the transaction is subject to sales tax. Similarly,
transactions over $10,000 are required to collect personal information from you
to protect against money-laundering. An informed dealer can guide you to a
purchase amount where you avoid both.
A quick Google or Yelp
search should be able to identify the nearby coin dealers in your local area.
But as mentioned earlier, if possible, it's better to select one based on a
recommendation from an experienced bullion buyer who's opinion you respect.
If instead you prefer to purchase online, there
are many good merchants out there. As a data point, the PeakProsperity.com
audience has reported good experiences with GoldSilver.com and with APMEX.
How much gold and silver should I buy for my
Emergency stack?
This is one of those
uniquely personal decisions that a general article like this can't give you a
specific dollar amount for.
The right answer is: Consult
with your professional financial advisor to determine the amount that best
suits your risk tolerance and goals.
But time and experience has
proven that an effective rule of thumb is: Whatever
amount lets you sleep well at night.
Buy enough that you no longer
worry about having no Plan B should a currency crisis suddenly hit. But don't
buy so much that you'll worry about getting robbed, or that you'll panic every
time the gold price drops in the market (which will be often, as gold is very
volatile.)
For most people, this will
be a few $thousand worth, or a low 5-figure $amount. Remember that 99.9% of US
households own less than 1oz of gold (if any). If we suddenly reverted to using
gold and silver as currency again, with only a few ounces of gold and a little
more of silver, you're going to have WAY more than most other people.
NOTES:
>Coins considered junk
Silver coins today, like the 90% Silver Washington Quarters that circulated
from 1932-1964, are also a great way to increase your Silver holdings. Canvas
bags of 400 Silver Washington quarters contain 71.5 oz of 90% Silver, making
the Silver coin perfect for investment portfolios. And of course, Silver
dollars are favorites thanks to their iconic designs, including Lady Liberty
and American eagles.
>35% Silver war nickels
give you the opportunity to own Silver at a low-premium cost. Produced by the
United States from mid-1942 to 1945, these "War Nickels" were made
from 56% copper, 35% Silver, and 9% manganese.
>The standard weight for a gold coin is one Troy ounce (31.1 grams, a
little heavier than the standard ounce). There are coins that weigh less than
one Troy ounce (1ozt), but they trade less frequently, and you will pay a
bigger percentage premium to buy them from dealers.
So, once I've bought my Emergency stack, where
do I keep it?
The first rule of owning
bullion is to convince the world you don't own any. DON'T TELL ANYONE ABOUT
IT!
Greed and crisis do weird
things to people. Don't make yourself a target unnecessarily by revealing your
holdings or where you've stashed them.
Except perhaps to your
spouse, or key family members you trust. You don't want the gold disappearing
forever should you suddenly kick the bucket (from natural causes?....)
The point of having an
emergency stack is to be able to get your hands on it quickly should you need
to. Some people put it in a home safe, some in a bank safety deposit box, some
hide it in the walls or bury it outside. There are pros and cons to each.
You'll need to decide for yourself which is the best option for your unique
situation.
The main risks to holding
precious metals on your own property are personal safety and loss. If you
decide to keep bullion in your home, in a safe or elsewhere, the smart thing to
do is to TELL NO ONE. The fewer people who suspect you have any gold, the lower
your risk of robbery. As for loss, many insurance companies will not cover more
than a small sum if your bullion is lost due to theft or disaster. Be sure
you've reviewed your homeowners policy to know what your limit is.
Holding your metal in a
bank reduces the theft/loss risks, but introduces others. For example, your
access is more limited as it depends on the bank being open (it might not be
during a financial crisis).
In the end, you'll need to
decide for yourself which option (or combination) best fits your personal risk
tolerance level.
Increasing Your
Core Position: Bullion (Stored Remotely)
As mentioned, most
households' Emergency stash will range between a few $thousand to a low
5-figure $sum.
Among those households, a
number will want to own more precious metals beyond the Emergency stash -- for
increased protection against monetary devaluation/economic crisis/asset price
bubbles. But they don't want exposure to the increased risk of storing greater
amounts of bullion.
For investors like this,
who are likely the majority of those reading this article, bullion storage
companies can be an excellent solution.
In this space, PeakProsperity.com has, for
years, endorsed solutions like the Hard Assets Alliance, which is representative of the benefits these
storage companies can offer.
The Hard Assets Alliance (HAA) is commercial-grade platform that
allows you to purchase gold and silver at very competitive prices, and then
have that metal stored in your name in a high-security vault of your choice.
The HAA offers such good pricing because it uses Gold Bullion International's industrial-grade platform (the same used by
major financial institutions like Merrill Lynch) which ensures that a minimum
of 4 dealers are competing to fulfill your order.
In terms of storage options, the HAA holds any precious metals you buy in your name. This is
"allocated" storage -- no one else has claim to that same bullion.
This differs from "unallocated" solutions where buyers have a
fractional claim on a pool of bullion. When using a storage compan, definitely
choose allocated solutions over unallocated.
The HAA gives you the choice of storing your bullion in any of
six ultra-secure non-bank vaults around the world, which are audited several
times each year. These vaults are owned and operated by world-renown security
companies (Brinks, Loomis, Malca Amit) and are in US (New York), US (Salt Lake
City), Switzerland, Australia, Singapore and the UK. So you can diversify your
country risk, should you wish to.
And should an act-of-god
impact the vault, the contents are insured at full replacement value in
bullion -- meaning if anything were to happen to your
bullion, you'd get back the same amount of metal, as opposed to compensation in
cash.
They also offer a "worry-free"
automated purchasing program that lets you create a set-it-and-forget it plan for
accumulating bullion over time. This lets you tap the power of
dollar-cost-averaging without having to actively manage the process
And should you decide at any point you want your
vaulted bullion sent to you, the HAA will ship it upon demand to wherever you specify.
For most investors, a
reputable industrial-grade vaulting service offering these benefits is an
excellent solution for expanding your gold and silver holdings beyond your
initial Emergency stash.
Buying Scrap
1 US ounce=28.349 grams
1 Troy ounce=31.103 grams
Metal
Melting Temperature
24k gold 1945° F
18k gold 1700° F
14k gold 1625° F
10k gold 1665° F
Pure silver 1761° F
Sterling silver 1640° F
Platinum 3224° F
Palladium 2831° F
24k gold 1945° F
18k gold 1700° F
14k gold 1625° F
10k gold 1665° F
Pure silver 1761° F
Sterling silver 1640° F
Platinum 3224° F
Palladium 2831° F
Silver is measured in troy ounces. For reference when buying
or selling, there are 12 troy ounces to 1 troy pound. There are approximately
31 grams to 1 troy ounce.
·
Real silver rings. Either flick the
silver coin into the air or tap it with another coin to produce a sound. The
sound you should hear in hear silver is a ringing sound, high-pitched and
bell-like. If you flip a 1932-1964 quarter (90% silver) and a post 1965 quarter
(90% copper), you should hear the difference immediately.[2]
·
Real silver melts ice. Place an ice cube
on a block of silver or a silver coin and watch the ice cube melt faster than
it would if it were merely left out at room temperature. Silver melts ice
quickly because it has very high thermal conductivity.
·
Real silver isn't magnetic. Get a
rare-earth neodymium magnet. Angle your silver bar at 45° and let the neodymium
magnet slide down. On real silver, the magnet will make a slow descent down the
bar. On non-silver materials, it will either stick to the top of the bar or
slide down very quickly.
Preserve your labor,
savings and retirement with gold and silver in your physical possession is my
best advice.
After a mega disaster,
the dollar bills in your pocket will be as useless as a college degree. Unless
that education is in a field that would be useful for a nineteenth-century
existence.
Bartering and precious
metals will once again become the accepted currency in the post-apocalyptic
world. The wise prepper will figure out how to turn his or her self-reliance
hobbies and skills into a lucrative “income” during the reconstruction stage
that will emerge after a long-term disaster...
NOTE: Finding a
local dealer can be done via this special report from this source:
Directory of
Dealers Specializing in Gold & Silver Coins & Bullion…send an email to help@boblivingstonletter.com & request the PDF
version.
Other reliable sources I use include:
Brandon Farran @ NationwideCoins.com
800-217-2780
APMEX.com or 800-375-9006
First Fidelity [ask for Levi] @ 800-336-1630
Yours in Self Reliance,
Bruce ‘the Poor Man’
A Final Note…
Contributors and subscribers enable the Poor Man Survivor to post 150+ free essays annually. It is for this reason they are Heroes and Heroines of New Media. Without your financial support, the free content would disappear for the simple reason that I cannot keep body and soul together on my meager book sales & ecommerce alone.
Useful Resources
Do you know how many people are impacted by a natural
disaster every year? One million? Ten million? Try over two hundred million.
And out of those 200 million people, did you know that over
a hundred thousand are killed? That’s also not to count the enormous expense
that disasters incur on the global economy, costing over 160 billion dollars a
year.
Just a few of the effects of disaster--beyond the massive
expense and the high risk of death--include severe injury, home displacement,
family separation, traumatization, and losing almost everything, to name a few
things...
“After the stock market crash in 2008, everyone started
claiming an economic collapse was about to happen, but what they didn’t realize
is that it DID happen… in 2008. Since then, the economy has slowly been
recovering. But the systemic problems that led to the crash were never
corrected, and the bubble has been re-inflating. It can’t re-inflate forever.”
Just like in the years leading up to the Great Recession,
people have too much debt and not enough wealth. Meanwhile, the stock market
has soared to new heights, as it always does before it comes crashing down...
Only
25% of Americans say they are comfortable with a presidential candidate who is
a socialist.-NBC News
Start spreading the news: New Yorkers are
coughing up the most cash in state income taxes. The Empire State collected
$2,249 per capita in individual state income taxes during the 2017 fiscal year,
according to data from the Tax Foundation.
The Best
and Worst U.S. States for Retirement (Yahoo! Finance)
If you’re wondering where to protect your nest
egg in retirement, look no further than the Sunshine State. Florida is the best
state for retirees, unsurprisingly, while Kentucky is the worst, according to a
study by WalletHub.
Last Package!
Social
Chaos Survival Guide: Savvy Precautions-Become Self-Reliant
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You Can’t
Buy Life Insurance After You’re Dead-Prepare NOW for Emergencies. Resources
& more…
I recommend that you invest in good tools and gear, but keep in
mind that no gadget will save your life unless you practice good basic survival
strategies.
*Available at our storefront – PLUS grab one of our popular
emergency solar/wind-up/battery back-up power plants…
Find
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A
Smoking Frog Feature, Shallow Planet Production
3 comments:
Terrific info guy! I still own some of the first silver stash I bought in the 90s when prices were dirt cheap-I look at it as my insurance policy!
I buy silver, the 'poor man's gold' as gold bullion is out of my reach for the most part & when the SHTF I think most folks will find it an easier medium to deal with, especially for everyday trade goods using mostly US or Canadian coins [which are 80% silver]...Good guide by the way but as we all know, the masses will ignore this advice.
Gold is the best precious metal to own during times of financial stress, silver does only moderately well, platinum does as well as gold but if we ever get to how Germany did after WWI and WWII, having both gold and silver plus useful items to barter with [ammo,food, fuel, cooking oil, toiletries, liquor,etc.] will be the currencies of choice.
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